奔向野外廣闊藍天
Heading into the Wild Blue Yonder: From Bergen to Norway's Awe-inspiring Fjords
奔向野外廣闊藍天：從卑爾根到挪威震撼人心的峽灣
Gateways tend to be things you wander through without dawdling1, without expectation, on the way to somewhere else.
門戶往往不是你滿懷期待、信步通過之地，而是通往它處的一段路程。
So I was wary on arrival in Bergen to see posters describing Norway’s second-largest city as ‘the gateway to the fjords’, even though they were high on the agenda during a short, but irresistibly sweet, trip to a part of the world about which we know far too little.
所以，一到卑爾根我就小心地看著一張張海報，上面將挪威的第二大城市描述為“通往峽灣的門戶”，盡管后者才是這次短途游日程上的主項——旅程雖短卻充滿令人欲罷不能的甜蜜，通向世上一個我們知之甚少的地帶。
Mind you, I’d heard the joke about the tourist in Bergen who asked a local lad: ‘Does it always rain here?’ To which the boy replied: ‘I don’t know, I’m only seven.’
請注意，我曾聽過一個關(guān)于卑爾根游客的笑話。他問當?shù)氐囊粋�小孩：“這兒常下雨嗎?”小男孩答道：“不清楚哇，我才7歲呢。”
Sure enough it was drizzling as we arrived in town (a sort of Scottish drizzle, but with an hour’s time difference). We checked into the Radisson Blu Hotel along with a few hundred others who were there for a medical conference of some sort or other.
不出所料，我們到達鎮(zhèn)上時正下著蒙蒙細雨(有點像蘇格蘭的毛毛雨，不過兩地有1小時的時差)。我們下榻于麗笙藍標酒店，這里還入住了幾百位來此參加某個醫(yī)療會議的人士。
No, not exactly a boutique hotel experience, but one that plonked2 us bang on Bryggen, the famous and much photographed wharf3 with its higgledy-piggledy wooden buildings that rightly have made it on to Unesco’s World Heritage List.
不，這并非只是下榻了一次精品酒店，而是將我們一下子拋到布里根這一被鏡頭競相追逐的著名碼頭。此地錯落有致的木質(zhì)建筑使其理所當然地入選聯(lián)合國教科文組織的世界遺產(chǎn)名錄。
Then, as we started exploring, we realised this particular gateway is one where dawdling is very much in order. Bergen is perfect to negotiate on foot. Safe, hospitable, self-assured, it’s no surprise that easy Jet has just added this former capital city to its roster of Scandinavian destinations.
接著，探索旅程開始在即，我們意識到閑逛是通過這一特別通道的上佳之選。卑爾根非常適合步行穿越。旅途既安全又舒服，讓人充滿信心。英國易捷航空將這一挪威古都列入公司的北歐航線名冊也就不足為奇了。
Quaint doesn’t do Bergen justice, though it does have a toy town air about it with its immaculately4 clean streets and unthreatening, unedgy vibe. And here’ s a sweeping generalisation: Norwegians seem effortlessly (dread phrase) ‘comfortable in their own skins’ — and comfortably off, too.
用“古色古香”來描述卑爾根并不恰如其分，雖然它的確有種玩具古堡的架勢——街道一塵不染，全無壓迫緊張之感。一言概之，挪威人似乎毫無負擔地(挺邪乎的詞)——且衣食無憂地——“安于自我”。
The oil rigs in the north of the country keep the economy nicely lubricated while making the likelihood of EU membership as remote as ever.
該國北部的石油產(chǎn)業(yè)保障其經(jīng)濟相當順暢地運行，但也令其加入歐盟的'可能性一直遙不可及。
That’s good news for Norwegians when they take their krones abroad, but not so good when the rest of us bring our pounds to Bergen. Make that ￡7 for a beer, ￡10 for a glass of wine.
當挪威人在國外花克朗時，上述情況是利好消息，但對我們其他這些在卑爾根花英鎊的英國人來說就不那么好了。買杯啤酒要花7英鎊，而一杯紅酒則要10英鎊。
Famous Norwegians? Tricky. There are lots of explorers and plenty of champion skiers. There’s the former Manchester United footballer Ole Gunnar Solskjaer, the playwright Henrik Ibsen and the composer EdvardGreig, who came from Bergen and whose home is now a museum and concert venue.
挪威有哪些名人呢?問題有點難度。這里誕生了眾多探險家和滑雪冠軍。還有前曼聯(lián)球員索爾斯克亞、劇作家亨利克·易卜生及作曲家愛德華·格里格，后者就是卑爾根人，其寓所現(xiàn)在成了博物館和音樂場地。
For sure, it’s the country’s landscape that is the real star. And it’s certainly easily accessible from Bergen. We got an 8.40am train for the popular all-day trip known breezily as Norway In A Nutshell.
當然，真正令人瞠目的是該國的風景。當然在卑爾根便可一覽。我們乘坐早上8點40分的火車進行了當?shù)睾芰餍械囊蝗沼�，其名如熙風般令人舒爽——挪威縮影。
This unhurried, but substantial tour starts with two spectacular hours on Northern Europe’s highest railway to Myrdal, where the station staff wear Postman Pat hats and merrily blow whistles. From Myrdal you switch trains and drop down to the famous little port of Flam through snowy mountains and past dozens of waterfalls.
這次旅程從容自在卻內(nèi)涵豐富。旅途的頭兩小時相當壯麗——我們行駛在通往米達爾的北歐海拔最高的公路上。這里的站臺人員都戴著派特叔叔式的郵差帽，快活地吹著口哨。旅客要在米達爾轉(zhuǎn)車，途經(jīng)白雪皚皚的山巒和十幾條瀑布，最終到達著名小港弗洛姆。
I expected to see Julie Andrews and her Von Trapp brood skipping beside the rickety track. And then, when we stopped at the Kjosfossen waterfall, everyone spilled out onto a platform 2,400 ft above sea level and two women in flowing red dresses appeared from behind a giant rock and began dancing seductively.
我期盼見到茱莉·安德魯斯及馮特拉普上校一家(《音樂之聲》里的人物)在老鐵軌邊上滑雪。后來，當列車在肖斯弗森瀑布停下時，大家都蜂擁而出，來到海拔2400英尺的月臺上。一塊巨石背后突然閃現(xiàn)兩位身著飄逸紅裙的女士，開始翩翩起舞，好不迷人。
Apparently, they were dressed as mythical forest creatures called Huldras and their dresses were disguising cow’s tails. If they could lure a man, their tails would drop off and they could return to normal life in the city. A good summer job for budding ballerinas5.
顯然，她們扮成了神秘的叢林精靈Huldra(北歐神話人物，牛尾人身的女妖)的模樣，其長裙偽裝成牛尾。如果她們能誘得男人上鉤，身后的尾巴就會脫落，她們就能回到城市正常生活了。這種表演真是芭蕾新秀們的一份夏日美差。
Our return to normal life was an abrupt6 one in Flam, where a huge cruise ship occupied the main dock. This is cruise central in summer, so you just have to regard Flam — with its microbrewery7, museum, touristy restaurants and souvenir shops — as a fjord hub.
到了弗洛姆，我們又突然回歸到“現(xiàn)實生活”中，一座如峽灣“心臟”的巨大游輪赫然占據(jù)了主碼頭——里面小釀酒 廠、博物館、游客就餐的飯館及紀念品店一應俱全。
For us, it was where we hopped on board a boat and chugged all the way to Gudvangen via the Aurlandsfjord and the narrower Naeroyfjord, both magnificent, both virtually unsullied by the trappings of 21st-century living.
而我們，則在此跳上一艘小船，在全程突突作響的發(fā)動機聲中到達古德維根，途中經(jīng)過了奧蘭德峽灣和更加逼仄的納若峽灣，這兩個地方都那么宏偉壯麗，顯然未受現(xiàn)代生活的侵染。
At one point on this two-hour cruise, I popped my head into the captain’s cabin to ask a question and he invited me in. He was a dead ringer for Captain Bird’s Eye.
在兩個小時的游弋中，我曾把頭探進船長室打聽事情，并獲邀進入。他真是像極了鳥眼船長(注：是西方家喻戶曉的美國最大的冷凍蔬菜食品公司Birds Eye食品公司廣告中的人物)。
‘Do you mind if I do?’ he asked, picking up a packet of tobacco and cigarette papers. ‘Not at all,’ I said. ‘Do you mind if I steer the ship?’ I asked a few minutes later. ‘Not at all,’ he said.
“你介意我抽煙嗎?”船長一邊拿起一小包煙草和一些卷紙，一邊問。“完全不介意，”我說。過了一會，我問，“我能來掌舵嗎?”“沒問題，”船長說。
And so, for the next ten minutes, I was at the helm8, steering a perfect line through some of the most perfect waters in the world.
就這樣，接下來的十分鐘，我操縱舵盤，熟練地在世上最無暇的水域之一行進。
It was only later that the captain explained we had been on auto-pilot all along. After arriving in Gudvangen, we took a bus to Voss. The route included the Stalheimskleiva road, with its notorious hairpin bends that make San Francisco’s Lombard Street look like child’s play.
可后來船長就向我解釋，我們其實一直處在自動舵模式。到達古德維根后，我們乘公交到了沃斯。斯塔爾黑姆斯克雷瓦公路就在這條線路上，其迭起的險彎是出了名的難行，相比之下，走舊金山的九曲花(正式稱倫巴底)街看來就容易得多了。
I concentrated on admiring the gushing9 water crashing over the rocks on either side of us, rather than imagining our bus crashing into the rocks and joining the gushing water.
我全神貫注地欣賞起兩側(cè)巖壁上一瀉而下的流水，卻未想見我們所乘的公交已然闖進重重巖壁，匯入滔滔流水中。
While waiting for our final train back to Bergen from Voss, I bought a rug made from reindeer10, then followed that up later with fillet11 of reindeer at the excellent Bryggeloft&Stuene restaurant (founded in 1910) on the wharf.
在等待從沃斯最終搭火車回卑爾根的當爾，我買了一條馴鹿皮做的小地毯，后來又在碼頭上鼎鼎有名的Bryggeloft&Stuene餐館(1910年始建)買了一條馴鹿肉。
After rounding off the night with a couple of Aquavits, the local liqueur12 made from potatoes, we were ready to sleepwalk back to the hotel. Next morning we took the funicular13 up to a wonderful vantage14 point high above the city: a busy port, a purposeful town, mountains, bridges and water everywhere.
晚上幾杯白蘭地下肚，享用了當?shù)赝炼怪瞥傻睦诰坪�，我們�(nèi)鐗粲伟銜灪鹾醯胤祷芈灭^。翌日，我們沿索道登上海拔高于這座城市的一處絕佳地點：這里有繁忙的港口、剛毅的城鎮(zhèn)、起伏的群山、數(shù)不清的水橋和無處不在的湖水。
We gulped the crisp air and marvelled at it all. We had read that 90 per cent of all the buildings burned down in the devastating fire of 1702, but brave Bergen bounced back — and today this charming, unpretentious15 city is far more than a mere gateway to somewhere else.
我們呼吸著清新的空氣，心中滿是嘆服。從文獻上我們得知這里90%的建筑物都毀于1702年的大火，但勇敢無畏的卑爾根浴火重生——而今，這座迷人且樸實無華的城市絕不僅是通往別處的門戶通道。
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